Coconut oil for skincare?

Coconut oil for skincare has undergone various opinions, ranging from being hailed as the ultimate solution to being criticized as detrimental. From a science-based perspective, let's explore whether topically applied coconut oil is beneficial for acne-prone skin.

Firstly, it's important to clarify that we're discussing the topical application of coconut oil to the skin, not its consumption or culinary use. Additionally, we're focusing on pure coconut oil, excluding formulations containing coconut oil, which will be addressed later.

Now, let's examine the potential advantages:

1. Moisture Retention: Coconut oil is effective at locking in moisture. Studies (1)(2) indicate that virgin coconut oil outperforms mineral oil in Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL), a measure of water loss. TEWL is relevant to acne because it reflects the skin barrier's functionality and susceptibility to infections such as acne.

2. Anti-Inflammatory Properties: Coconut oil contains compounds like ferulic acid and p-coumaric acid, which possess phenolic antioxidants. Animal studies (3)(4) suggest that virgin coconut oil exhibits stronger anti-inflammatory properties than processed coconut oil, countering inflammation—a key factor in acne formation.

3. Antibacterial Action: Lauric acid constitutes half of the fatty acid content in coconut oil, and studies (5) indicate its antibacterial effectiveness, surpassing benzoyl peroxide. While bloggers and science might differ on the potency due to the binding of Lauric acid to triglycerides, it remains antibacterial.

4. Comedogenic Nature: Lauric acid, a component of coconut oil, is comedogenic. This raises concerns about pore blockage. Comedogenic ratings, though not universally respected, suggest potential pore-blocking effects, considering the substantial Lauric acid content.

Should you try coconut oil? It depends on your skin type. If your skin tends to react negatively to oils, it might be best avoided. However, for more resilient skin types, coconut oil offers several benefits.

Not all coconut oils are equal. The extraction method, whether heat, chemicals, or pressing, influences their composition. "Virgin" or "extra virgin" oils are typically unrefined, retaining more natural components and exhibiting higher antioxidant capacity.

Now, in cosmetic formulations, coconut oil faces challenges due to its solid state at room temperature. Manufacturers often use "liquid coconut oil" or fractionated coconut oil, which lacks long-chain fatty acids like lauric acid. While this removes potential pore-blocking issues, it retains medium-chain fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, facilitating skin penetration without pore-clogging.

In summary, if you decide to try coconut oil, opt for the virgin type, considering its extraction method. For cosmetic formulations, fractionated coconut oil addresses potential pore concerns while preserving beneficial properties.

References:
(1) [Effect of topical virgin coconut oil on SCORAD index, transepidermal water loss, and skin capacitance in mild to moderate pediatric atopic dermatitis](https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24320105)
(2) [Novel antibacterial and emollient effects of coconut and virgin olive oils in adult atopic dermatitis](https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19134433)
(3) [Anti-inflammatory, analgesic, and antipyretic activities of virgin coconut oil](https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20645831)
(4) [Effect of topical application of virgin coconut oil on skin components and antioxidant status during dermal wound healing in young rats](https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20523108)
(5) [Antimicrobial property of lauric acid against Propionibacterium acnes: its therapeutic potential for inflammatory acne vulgaris](https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19387482)
(6) [Anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties of capric acid against Propionibacterium acnes: a comparative study with lauric acid](https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24284257)
(7) [Antioxidant capacity and phenolic acids of virgin coconut oil](https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19115123)

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